Ingredients 101: What's In Exfoliants?
The product that I get the most questions about has got to be exfoliants. They are wildly misunderstood, totally overused, and poorly marketed when it comes to helping the buyer understand exactly who it’s for and how to use it.
So this blog is hopefully going to help you become an exfoliant master, knowing all the heavy hitters when it comes to anything from chemical exfoliants to the preservatives that keep them fresh. You might want a piece of paper and a pen while you read this, there is going to be a lot of information that’s pertinent to all skin types.
“Exfoliation is key. It eliminates dead skin cells, polishes skin, refines pores, and smoothes out wrinkles.”
Before we dive into ingredients, let’s make sure we are on the same page when it comes to what an exfoliant is and why you would use one. The when you use it is really dependent on the manufacturer and what the label says. Unfortunately, there isn’t a blanket answer to exactly when you should exfoliate without knowing what you are using, but generally speaking, it’s 2-3 times a week, in the evening.
What Is Exfoliation?
Exfoliation is the process of either manually (scrub/buff) or chemically (acids/enzymes) removing dead skin cells from the skin’s surface. Our body also exfoliates naturally, it’s called desquamation, and as we age this natural process slows down. There are many other factors that affect our body’s ability to desquamate, hence the necessity to support this by topical exfoliation.
I wrote a blog in my “Throw It Out Thursday” series all about exfoliation and myth-busting common lies told about these scrubs and peels. Check that blog out HERE and for more about what exfoliation is and isn’t.
Why Exfoliate?
This goes back to the concept of desquamation. Our body is a well-oiled machine when we get it, however, life and all the facets of human emotions affect that machine over time. Topically, our skin is our body’s armor but it’s also a doorway into the body from the outside (oxygen, environmental factors), as well as a window into what’s going on on the inside, like stress or dis-ease. Let me explain:
First, I want to go into the idea of skin as armor. Think back to any movie about Midevial warriors, their armor was heavy and made of metal that needed regular care to keep it sturdy and protective. Our skin is much more sophisticated, but the core idea is the same; it requires regular care and attention to keep it sturdy and protective. Polishing your armor is exfoliating your skin, it removes the dull and unnecessary surface layer to help each payer beneath it function better.
So your armor is shiny and functioning better, part of its function is allowing stuff in, like product ingredients, air, and even some stuff we don’t want like environmental particles. The problem lies if the surface is damaged, it can lead to microscopic cracks in your skin’s surface layers. These cracks allow things like a product to get deeper into our skin than it’s supposed to, this can lead to a lot of other issues. I wrote a blog a while back about the epidermis and how the acid mantle can be unbalanced resulting in cracks or fissures in the skin, you can read that HERE.
When the acid mantle is unbalanced, the last thing you want to do is exfoliate it. That exfoliant will most likely sting and burn like crazy because of those cracks in your epidermis. Repair your acid mantle with the proper cleansers, toner, serum (hydrating one), and moisturizer. Once your skin is balanced, you can discuss exfoliation.
Secondly, another why is that the skin can let you know what’s going on internally if you know what to look for or what questions to ask. When looking at your skin’s surface, remember that what you are looking for are skin conditions, these determine your toners, serums, treatment masks, and exfoliants. Some common conditions are:
Pigmentation: Characterized by discoloration or excessive melanin production due to factors like sun damage, hormonal fluctuations, or skin trauma, pigmentation requires exfoliants like lactic acid and retinol to help lighten and bring to the surface to properly treat it.
Acne: If it is in-between your eyebrows, this could mean your diet might be off as this area is correlated to your liver. If it is in the center of your chin, we are talking digestion and hydration, aka are you using the restroom regularly? The jawline is notorious for hormonal fluctuations, this can be either due to your menstrual cycle, more on that in a blog HERE, or something else. I am not a doctor and still don’t play one on TV, so if you are dealing with persistent, deep, and painful breakouts in this area, visit your doctor and a dermatologist to cancel out any medical reasons first, then go see your Skin Therapist. More on acne under the salicylic section.
Fine Lines (NOT Wrinkles): This is commonly misunderstood as wrinkles, but if the surface of your skin looks like crepe paper, it’s dehydration (lack of water) not a sign of aging. The way to treat this, and no it’s not drinking more water although we all could use an extra glass, is to topically treat it with a hydrating serum, like Hyaluronic Acid, and to keep it balanced with the right moisturizer and weekly hydrating masks. Unfortunately, this does not require exfoliation, but regular exfoliation will help hydrating serums work better.
Excessively Rough Skin: If your skin feels and looks rough, like really rough, dry, and flakey, then you might be dealing with too much dead skin. Your body just naturally produces a lot more than normal and therefore is more visible when it reaches the surface. This skin condition definitely calls for exfoliation. You’ll need a regular, probably daily exfoliant, like a scrub, to keep your extra skin cells at bay.
If you aren’t really sure where to start, or what you’re looking at when trying to figure this out, this is where your Skin Therapist comes in. If you don’t have one, have no fear! I offer Virtual Skin Consultations and will guide you through this process discovering what your skin is telling you and what products are needed to keep it all balanced.
“Exfoliating regularly helps fight acne and blemishes.”
So you know what exfoliation is, some reasons why you would want to exfoliate regularly, but there is still the lingering question of which one to use. Staring down the skincare isles in stores can be overwhelming, with a myriad of colors, options, and catchy names to grab your attention, but are they right for you?
In order to understand which exfoliant is best for your skin, first, you need to know what the foundation of exfoliants are - the active ingredients.
This blog is focusing all on the active ingredients found in your common exfoliants. You might be asking yourself why are preservatives on that list then?
Good question. It’s there because it will make up a good bit of your product, especially If it is slightly unstable and has a short shelf life, like a lemon enzyme.
As you can see in the image to the left that I broke the ingredients up into four sections: Mechanical Exfoliants, Acids (AHA/BHA), the Retinoid Family, and Preservatives, aka the ingredient that keeps your product from spoiling on your shelf. The first two I talk a lot about in other blogs like the one I wrote just on the basics of exfoliation, you can read that blog, which includes cleansers, HERE. I could seriously talk so much about this and still have more to say 😄
Exfoliants are nowadays not only found just under the category “exfoliant”, you can find these ingredients in serums, masks, and even moisturizers! If everything you’re using has salicylic or glycolic acid in there though, it’s going to affect your skin and not in a good way. It can lead to dryness, redness on the skin, and even more breakout. Hence why I want to talk more about ingredients than just products, even one of the preservatives in this blog is commonly used in moisturizers!
Mechanical Exfoliants
Let’s dive in with the most commonly (over)used exfoliant, SCRUBS! For some reason. it is ingrained in us that we need to scrub the heck out of our skin. This couldn’t be further from the truth!
Almost every time a client or friend comes to me saying their skin is acting up/unbalanced/breaking out, 9 times out of 10 they are using nothing but exfoliating products, especially scrubs. Generally speaking, when skin is “acting up” it might need hydration or a mini facial with extractions.
Scrubs are only one step of an eight-step treatment I personally would use to treat my “acting up” skin, regardless of the problem. So focus on figuring out the skin condition present, and then you’ll know what product(s) and course of action you need to take to treat it.
Mechanical exfoliants can be made from beads, seeds, microparticles manufactured in a lab to ground up oats. There are some that are better than others, for example, the St. Ives Apricot Scrub uses ground down walnut shells as the “scrub bits”. Walnut shell is extremely tough, and no matter how ground up it is, there is an opportunity for it to scratch and damage the surface of your skin. It’s best used on elbows, knees, and toes but not on the gentle skin of your face.
Why this product is marketed for your face is literally the bane of an esthetician’s existence. If you go back to the list of common skin conditions, only one of them caused daily exfoliation, our skin doesn’t need rough and aggressive, it needs a specific combination of ingredients targeted at the conditions present. Walnut shell is not one of those ingredients.
Mechanical Exfoliant Ingredients
Nut Shells: The most common, and presumably safest for your skin, is ground almond. Almonds are rich in Vitamin E, which nourishes skin while providing high levels of antioxidant benefits. An all-around amazing ingredient great for all skin types and especially those with rough skin surfaces. Even though some nuts are great when used for exfoliation, remember our friend walnut, it’s too abrasive and drying, resulting in microtears on the surface of the skin.
Jojoba Beads: These little gems, pronounced ho-ho-bah, are naturally round and smooth, making them perfect for exfoliating your skin and pores. Jojoba is derived from a shrub that’s actually a neighbor to us here in sunny California! It’s native to Arizona, California, and northwestern Mexico. There are so many benefits to this plant, and you’ve probably used something with jojoba in it and didn’t know! More on jojoba in a blog I wrote about facial oils, serums, and ampoules HERE.
Pumice Crystals: Ok, first let’s explain what pumice is. Pumice is created when lava and water meet. Yup, the stuff you see on the beaches of Hawaii, it’s super rough. That stuff. So pumice crystals are made up by grinding down this naturally occurring pumice. It’s pretty rough and border lining on manual at-home microdermabrasion. Not sure if this is right for any skin type.
Oatmeal: A little DIY guy and frequently used retail exfoliating ingredient, oatmeal is not just a healthy breakfast food. One of its many benefits is that it is oil-absorbing, making it great for acne-prone skin. Also being anti-inflammatory, it can help reduce redness while balancing your skin’s surface. I wrote another blog a while back about DIY skincare, there’s a recipe with Oatmeal that you can check out HERE
Acids
This is my happy place, I love a good chemical exfoliant! There are more options on the market now than ever offering these ingredients for home use, where before you might have had to visit the spa to experience.
In this category, there are two main types: AHA or alpha hydroxy acids and BHA or beta hydroxy acids. Now I’m adding them in here, and fruit enzymes are also an amazing chemical exfoliant, but not an acid. At the Spa that’s all I do is fruit facials, these are amazing exfoliants and safe to use at home.
Some of my favorite enzymes for all skin types are raspberry, coconut, papaya, pineapple, and depending on the product line, pumpkin. I do retail some on my online skincare shop, you can check that out HERE, or there are companies like Farmhouse Fresh Skincare whose entire line is based on plants and fruit enzymes. So again, not an acid, but I’m adding them here as they are very similar in the way that they work.
Acid (AHA/BHA) Ingredients
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA): When it comes to understanding Alpha Hydroxy Acids, it’s a long list to go through. Almost all of the acids on the market (with the exception of Salicylic) are AHA’s. Some of the common ones are Glycolic, Lactic, Kojic, and Phytic. Arbutin is also in this category but not as frequently used. Each one of these comes from an organic source, like sugar cane or rice fields, but they all have different properties.
Glycolic: Great for anti-aging and acne-prone skin as this little acid can get through skin cells with ease. It works by dissolving the “glue” that holds our dead skin cells together, thus allowing it to slough off. Glycolic in low percentages can be used as a toner, bringing the skin back to a more acidic pH. In higher concentrations, it is a wonderful chemical peel only offered at Spa’s and Dermatology centers. Not recommended for sensitive skin, or everyday use.
Lactic: A favorite among skin therapists, this acid is used primarily for lightening and brightening the skin. Awesome for pigmentation, this dates back to Ancient Egypt and Cleopatra who would bathe in sour milk (lactic acid) and whose skin was famous for its luminous glow.
Kojic: The by-product from the fermentation process of malting rice, this acid is great for brightening the skin! A favorite among estheticians, it’s gentle yet very effective, great for all skin types.
Phytic: Derived from grains, legumes, or even rice, this acid is the gentlest of all the acids, you might even not call this an exfoliant it’s so mild! But paired with other acids like Glycolic or Lactic and you’ll get a skin brightening combo.
Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA): In the Beta Hydroxy family there is really only one, Salicylic Acid. You might have heard of this one, its name is plastered on almost everything for acne-prone skin. A common exfoliant used for acne because of its attraction to oil, absorbing it and thus drying up breakouts. Keyword: drying. This can be very drying and is really strong, so it is typically used in small concentrations over the counter. Great to use, but careful to not abuse.
Fruit Enzymes: I’m adding these in this section because the way they function is similar, enzymes digest dead skin cells, and then disappear. Yup, into thin air, taking the dead skin with it. Some common fruit enzymes are Pumpkin (Combo/Oily Skin), Raspberry (Acne Prone Skin), Coconut (literally All Skin), Pineapple (gentle and great for All Skin), and Papaya (All Skin unless you’re allergic to latex…). Typically you would use a fruit enzyme like a facial, once a week or once every two weeks. You don’t need to use these as often because they are effective at their job and dead skin takes a bit to build up again. Best done as part of an at-home facial.
“Can we just skip to the part where I’m getting a chemical peel?”
Even though you can find some of these for home use, most often when you hear the word acid it’s about a chemical peel. What is a chemical peel exactly? Visit this link HERE to learn more!
Retinoids
“Wrinkles? Retinol. Acne? Retinol. Student loans? Retinol. Boy problems? Retinol. Traffic? Retinol.”
That quote above could not be more true for the die-hard users of retinol. Retinoids came out on the market a while ago, but picked up popularity within the last decade or so and have just been climbing that social ladder ever since.
Marketed as the catch-all ingredient/exfoliant to fix all your skin woes, while partially true, this ingredient is best used sparingly.
Ranging from the kind you get a prescription for from the dermatologist to the kind you can find at the Dollar Store (yes, I have seen retinol-based products there, do not use them), this ingredient is found everywhere and understood nowhere.
So what is retinol? Or Retin-A? Is it safe for everyone to use? All these questions answered in time, but let’s first understand the history of retinol, I mean who doesn’t love a good origin story!?
Retinol: A Brief History
Retin-A was developed in 1967 by D. Albert Kligman initially to treat acne but later discovered to work even better on wrinkles and premature signs of aging. Derived from Vitamin A and a very close relative to tretinoin (another acne-fighting ingredient), Retin-A has been marketed for acne since the ’70s, and now more recently for wrinkles.
There are pros and cons to every new product that comes on the market, and Retin-A is no stranger to that. It is UV sensitive, meaning it reacts very badly when exposed to sunlight, so you can only use it at night and absolutely must wear SPF. It also can be irritating to the skin, causing redness, flakey, or peeling skin. Basically, just be careful when using any retinoid-based product.
The Retinoid’s: A Family of Ingredients
Retin-A: We briefly chatted about this a second ago, the wonder ingredient that treats acne and wrinkles. However, this usually needs to be prescribed. According to plasticsurgery.org
Retin-A is a topical medicine available by prescription only that is applied sparingly to the facial skin, sparing the eyelids and the corners of the nose and lips. It works at the cellular level and takes several months to see the full effect.
Retinoic Acid: This one turns out to be one of many, and I mean many!
Retinoic acid is a member of the over 4,000-strong family of retinoids, which are compounds derived from retinol or vitamin A, or compounds structurally similar to it.
- Dr. Liji Thomas, MD, https://www.news-medical.net/health/What-is-Retinoic-Acid.aspx
Retinoic acid is used for skincare (it has many uses internally as our body does need Vitamin A, but please don’t start taking anything without consulting your doctor), this can treat photodamage, aka sun damage. The important thing to note is that they have to be used under controlled conditions. This family of ingredients runs strong, and when overused can lead to a mess of issues.
Retinol: Word on the street is that retinol is OTC and relatively skin safe, wiile retinoids need to be prescribed by a doctor or derm. Meaning this ingredient you will see all over the shelves at Target. From an article on healthline.com
Once in this middle layer of skin, retinol helps neutralize free radicals to boost the production of elastin and collagen. This creates a “plumping” effect that reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and enlarged pores. At the same time, retinol has an exfoliating effect on the skin’s surface that can further improve texture and tone.
You can see how this ingredient had to have its own section, there are over 4,000 different types! These are just three of those 4,000 but three of the most common that you’ll find. Another thing to note is that while retinol sounds like a wonder skin cure, it is very photo-sensitive and strong, meaning it’s not meant for all skin types.
If you are using this or plan on using it, be cautious and sparring with it. Treat it like a rich piece of chocolate or a shopping spree, all things are better in moderation.
Preservatives
Go with me here, I know a lot of people think preservatives are toxic, or useless, but they have a purpose and aren’t as bad as they sound.
I wanted to add these in here because the aforementioned ingredients are all very shelf unstable. Retinoids were discovered because the doctor realized he had to move it to a dark brown glass bottle to keep it stable!
While dark brown glass bottles are not ingredients, they are a functional way product lines help to extend shelf life and preserve delicate ingredients like retinoids. Ever wonder why some products are in glass bottles and others arent, even though they are from the same company? It could have something to do with an active ingredient in the product.
“The composition of glass is relatively stable, and it is not easy to have a chemical reaction with skin care products. In simple terms, skin care products are packed in glass bottles, which are not easy to deteriorate.”
Ok, so glass serves a purpose more than just looking extra fancy, but let’s not get off track. Preservatives are extremely common, some found in your skincare might even be in some of your food. Just think about how your skin is an organ, and so is your stomach, so it makes sense that you would use similar ingredients. Right?
Preservative Ingredients
Tocopherol Acetate aka Vitamin E: You might remember back to my first ingredient blog on moisturizers where I discuss Tocopherol Acetate in the preservatives section there. How an antioxidant works as a preservative is by simply keeping the product stable by neutralizing free radical activity and oxidation. It won’t affect your skin negatively at all!
Propylene & Butylene Glycol: Another one I’ve discussed before under the humectants section of moisturizers. In the case of exfoliants, they work as antifungal and antibacterial ingredients. They are safe and non-drying to the skin.
Disodium EDTA: I know this one sounds like a pesticide, but I promise you it is not!
Disodium EDTA protects the integrity of skincare products from undergoing unwanted consistency changes, pH changes, odor changes, or texture changes.
- L’oreal Ingredient Library, Diosodium EDTA Skincare Ingredient
You will find Disodium EDTA in almost everything as it is a safe and effective preservative.
Parabens: Big controversial ingredient here. I am not a scientist, unfortunately, so I will refer to them when it comes to explaining what parabens are and why you might still find them in your products:
Parabens are a family of related chemicals that are commonly used as preservatives in cosmetic products. Preservatives may be used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and mold, in order to protect both the products and consumers.
The parabens used most commonly in cosmetics are methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and ethylparaben.
FDA doesn’t have special rules that apply only to preservatives in cosmetics. The law treats preservatives in cosmetics the same as other cosmetic ingredients.
Under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act), cosmetic products and ingredients, other than color additives, do not need FDA approval before they go on the market.
- Prabens in Cosmetics, fda.gov
Ok, I should use the term scientist loosely here as the FDA clearly states that it doesn’t have regulations specific to these ingredients but lumps them into a category “cosmetics”. Now, ever since beauty school I have had the FDA Cosmetics Act memorized and it states that “Cosmetics as defined as products applied, dusted, or poured on to the surface of the skin” which is very vague, and as science progresses we’ve discovered that some ingredients can go deeper than we thought or actually affect the body, sometimes with a negative outcome.
Wherever you stand with parabens, and if you don’t know why this ingredient is controversial check out a blog I did not write HERE, it’s all up to you, I am just here to present the information. There are a lot of skincare companies that refuse to use parabens, one of my favorites being Arbonne, check them out on my page HERE
That is a lot to take in! I know that I have just brain-dumped a lot of my knowledge about exfoliants and their ingredients here, and yet again, there is still more I can say. There will always be future blogs going more in-depth on each of the ingredients shared here today, but for now, I hope that gives you a good overview of what’s in your skincare.
If you ever have any questions, hop over to my IG HERE and drop me a message! Till next time, be good to your skin and even better to your whole self!
xx eri